Saturday, 13 April 2013

MEASUREMENTS: Laptop Audio Survey - Apple MacBook Pros, Acer Aspire, ASUS Taichi...

Now that the asynchronous CM6631A USB to SPDIF device works well on the Mac with full access to sample rates after removing that reset chip, let's have a look at a few of the laptops I have around here - how the internal DAC's measure and compare this to the effect of disparate hardware on adaptive USB and asynchronous USB DAC's. First up, let me introduce you to the laptops I'll be testing:

1. Early-2008 17" MacBook Pro (MBP):
     CPU:  2.6GHz Core 2 Duo
     Memory: 6GB 667MHz DDR2
     Graphics: nVidia GeForce 8600M GT 512MB
     OS: Mac OS X 10.8.2
     HD: Corsair GT 240GB SATA SSD
This has been my work laptop for a few years until a couple months back. Essentially top-of-the-line laptop back in 2008 when I bought it. Still looks good and works well! I updated the hard drive to an SSD and upped the 4GB to 6GB about a year back.

2. Mid-2009 15" MacBook Pro (MBP):

     CPU: 2.26GHz Core 2 Duo
     Memory: 8GB 1333MHz DDR3
     Graphics: nVidia GeForce 9400M 256MB
     OS: Mac OS X 10.8.3
     HD: WD 640GB SATA
My wife's work laptop. One of the Apple UniBody construction machines. The only laptop in this roundup with a hard drive rather than SSD.

3. Acer Aspire 5552-7858 (17"):

This is the least expensive of the laptops; priced at <$600 when I bought it new in 2011. This is also the machine I've been using over the last months for all my "mobile" data collection such as the Oppo tests at my friend's house. Mostly used by my kids and guests if they want to look something up. SSD upgrade about 6 months back.
     CPU: 2.2GHz AMD Phenom II X4 N970
     Memory: 6GB 1333MHz DDR3
     Graphics: ATI Mobility HD4250
     OS: Windows 8 x64
     HD: OCZ Vertex2 120GB SATA SSD

4. ASUS Taichi 21 DH51 (11.6" dual screen):

My newest "ultrabook" laptop (bought February 2013). I know the reviews are mixed but IMO, this is a fantastic mobile laptop / tablet with a high resolution 1080P matte screen in laptop mode and glossy touchscreen as a tablet! Everything in one light and mobile package; fantastic to use in the local coffee shop to update one's audio blog :-). Great for work and although the battery life is at best average in power saving mode, good enough for me with light Office duties.
     CPU: Intel Core i5-3317U (1.7GHz)
     Memory: 4GB 1333MHz DDR3
     Graphics: Intel HD 4000
     OS: Windows 8 x64
     HD: 128GB SSD mSATA
Note that this unit doesn't have USB2 - tested with USB3 ports.

I. NATIVE DAC (RightMark Analogue output analysis):

First, let us have a look at the internal DAC's in these laptops. Measurements were done as follows:
Laptop headphone out --> shielded phono-RCA cable --> E-MU 0404USB --> Aspire AMD laptop






In order to try to ensure "bit-perfect" output, I used Decibel 1.2 on the Macs (turned off all volume adjustment, allowed Decibel to have exclusive access, buffered audio files to memory). On the Windows 8 side, playback was with foobar2000 1.2.4 (latest stable version) playing back with either WASAPI with no dithering or ASIO if driver available.

As you can see, each laptop demonstrated significantly different measurement results. Every one is capable of handling 24/96. The frequency response graph for each machine looks different, especially between the MacBook's vs. Windows machines (perhaps the Acer and ASUS use similar OEM DAC hardware?).

Not surprisingly, the ASUS has the highest noise floor of the 4 machines. It is an "ultrabook" so there's a lot of electronics packed into that case plus the headphone out jack is right underneath the screen hinge (instead of closer up front by the keyboard like the other machines).

I'm impressed by the MacBooks though with >100dB dynamic range! That's fantastic for laptops and certainly as good as lesser "audiophile" DAC's out there.

 II. Adaptive Isochronous USB (RightMark Analogue output analysis):

Using the AUNE X1 (Mark I) as the DAC, let's look at the relative performance of each machine using the X1's USB interface - the old "adaptive isochronous" BB PCM2707 USB1 technology measured at the usual CD sample rate of 16/44.

Test laptop --> Shielded USB cable --> AUNE X1 --> Shielded RCA --> E-MU 0404USB --> Aspire laptop





Notice how close the results are except for the Aspire-X1 results. Obviously since we're now utilizing the same DAC for each machine, the sound output is dictated by the properties of the DAC. The difference with the Aspire-X1 setup is that the Aspire is both the test machine and the measurement device (loopback setup). This means the Aspire needed more CPU processing and had much higher USB traffic than the other machines (maybe the mixed USB1 & USB2 modes have something to do with this). What we're seeing is likely electrical noise generated by the busy machine, and as I'll show later, this is NOT likely due to significant timing jitter in the digital domain.

Otherwise, I see no significant difference in measured "sound" coming out of the DAC whether the machine is Mac or Windows despite the significantly different underlying hardware, OS, playback software, etc... 

 III. Asynchronous USB (RightMark Analogue output analysis):

Test laptop --> shielded USB2 --> CM6631A --> inexpensive decent 3' TosLink --> AUNE X1 --> E-MU 0404USB --> Aspire laptop







Look at what happened with the asynchronous and very inexpensive ($50) CM6631A performing USB to SPDIF duties! Audio output from the AUNE X1 DAC is now IDENTICAL from every laptop. This shows that compared to the USB1 input to the X1, the CM6631A converter, in using TosLink provides excellent electrical noise rejection from the USB port (note that I'm running the converter USB powered; NOT separate power supply even). I think this is a nice demonstration of how the TosLink interface has its place despite measurably worse jitter in some cases.

IV. Jitter - Native DAC:

The Dunn J-Test was created to look at jitter in SPDIF interfaces, therefore there really should not be any issue with built-in DAC's for each laptop. Reminder, "bit-perfect" settings for Decibel with the Mac's, foobar2000 WASAPI 16-bit undithered for the Windows machines used. Here's how the 16/44 J-Test result looks for each machine:

2008 17" MacBook Pro:

2009 15" MacBook Pro:

Acer Aspire:

ASUS Taichi:

Quite different spectra as you can see. What is learned from the graphs is NOT jitter but rather the loss of the jitter modulation pattern with the 2008 MacBook, Acer Aspire, and ASUS Taichi. This means that despite using bit-perfect settings with the players, these computer DAC's are incapable of "bit-perfection". Other than the 2009 MacBook Pro, all the other machines either truncate or perhaps have some kind of 'forced' dithering in place such that the LSB jitter modulation has been corrupted.

V. Jitter - Adaptive Isochronous USB AUNE X1:

Using the same method, lets look at the jitter pattern with the USB1 interface built into the AUNE X1 (Mark I). Again either using Decibel or foobar2000 with bit-perfect settings in place. USB cable is generic shielded good quality 6' cable:

2008 MacBook Pro to AUNE X1:

2009 MacBook Pro to AUNE X1:

Acer Aspire to AUNE X1:

ASUS Taichi to AUNE X1:

As you can see, the jitter modulation tone can be see in each situation. This confirms that indeed bit-perfect data is being sent to the DAC containing the LSB data. If anything, it looks like the Mac's may have a few more jitter sidebands than the Windows machines. If you recall from the RightMark results above, the Acer Aspire is performing both playback and recording duties in this situation so you can see that the noise floor is higher than for the others (noise increases significantly in the lower frequencies as shown in the RightMark graphs) likely due to the increased CPU and USB activity causing noise to spill over into the X1 DAC through the USB electrical interface.

VI. Jitter - Asynchronous CM6631A USB to TosLink to AUNE X1:

What about when the CM6631A is used? Two things are happening here - USB communication is now asynchronous allowing better clocking (ie. lower jitter), and galvanic isolation is also happening by way of the TosLink SPDIF intermediary. As I measured in a previous blog post, the CM6631A appears to have just as low jitter whether with coaxial or TosLink.

2008 MBP to CM6631A to AUNE X1 (TosLink):

2009 MBP to CM6631A to AUNE X1 (TosLink):

Acer Aspire to CM6631A to AUNE X1 (TosLink):

ASUS Taichi to CM6631A to AUNE X1 (TosLink):

Notice how the jitter spectrum looks almost identical now just as the RightMark measurements above look essentially identical in each case with the CM6631A. With TosLink galvanic isolation, the Aspire's noise floor is in line with the others and in each case, the jitter modulation signal is well defined, again proving that Decibel (sending to the Mac's native USB 2 Audio driver) and foobar2000 (using the C-Media ASIO driver now) are capable of bit-perfect output when the hardware allows.

VII. SUMMARY:

1. Even though most laptops/motherboards these days advertise their audio hardware as "HD Audio", they are generally nothing of the sort. Although the MacBook Pro's showed good dynamic range in the RightMark tests at 24/96, the 2008 model was incapable of true 16-bit processing. Likewise, neither of the two Windows 8 laptops were capable of preserving the 16-bit LSB jitter modulation pattern. Perhaps obvious, but the bottom line is that you cannot trust the built-in DAC's for even 16/44 resolution audio.

2. Watch out for noise creeping into the DAC from the USB interface as shown with the Aspire-X1 Adaptive USB example. This can originate from internal electrical components as in this case or other times ground loops. Galvanic isolation with the TosLink interface is one way of dealing with this.

3. Overall, the asynchronous USB interface is better than adaptive isochronous USB for jitter in this example (obviously I cannot vouch for all asynchronous DAC / interfaces). This has been demonstrated before already and seen again here. These days it's a moot point since asynchronous USB interfaces are readily available and if your DAC doesn't have one, just grab an inexpensive converter like the CM6631(A) I used here. There are of course some very expensive USB-SPDIF adapters but given the CM6631A results, why spend more from a sonic perspective? As I have also stated before, I still have no good evidence to say that jitter at this low level is ever audible with real music despite what subjective audiophile reviewers or Internet posters generally claim! In ABX tests and even non-blinded flipping between measured jittery vs. clean audio sources, I cannot tell the difference at least up to ~2ns peak-to-peak jitter; nevermind the usual few hundred picosecond jitter with decent modern gear [Ed. apologize for the error...  I previously had a typo of "2ms"]. It's possible that my ears aren't sensitive to this but to be honest, unless one has superhuman hearing abilities, I can't imagine how it would be physiologically possible given these test results.

4. If you keep electrical noise/interference at bay, and use appropriate software player & drivers to ensure bit-perfection, there is no reason why Macs vs. Windows vs. ANY computer would 'sound' any different paired to a good DAC. As you can see above, when the CM6631A asynchronous USB-to-SPDIF converter is used and galvanic isolation is in place, there's essentially no difference in the analogue RightMark measurements and the Dunn J-Test spectra irrespective of CPU, speed, memory, HD/SSD, OS, USB, etc. (obviously as long as the specs are good enough for bit-perfect output - this is the beauty of digital). (Here's another interesting article showing identical Mac vs. Windows output using JRiver and different methodology.)

I hope this article has been useful in demonstrating a few things about computer audio. Measurements allow an opportunity to verify claimed improvements and demonstrate technical progress in hardware performance - amazing that few audiophile magazines / web sites actually include independent objective measurements and reviews come out looking like infomercials and PR. Realize that none of what I've shown is all that mysterious or requires audio "voodoo" whatsoever - science is all you need; let the musicians provide the passion and art. The cables are all generic, reasonably high quality (ie. nothing looking like they're going to break!), and universally costs <$20 for standard 3-6' lengths. The AUNE X1 DAC can be bought off eBay for ~$200. The CM6631A USB to SPDIF costs $50. The analogue and jitter measurements are on par with much more expensive gear I've come across. No need to further obsess over details like jitter or bit-perfection because the objective data has set the mind at ease...  If this were my main listening system, this then is where I would start more subjective evaluation with the amp and speakers asking myself whether I prefer the sound of the technically accurate setup or not. Realize that not everyone wants technical accuracy - terms like "clinical" or "sterile" impart this pejorative connotation. IMO, there is no such thing as a system being "too resolving", there's only source material that's "not good enough"!

After all this, you might ask: "So how does it sound?"
     Great!  (No need for superfluous adjectives.) Now go enjoy some music...


-------------------
For posterity, a response I put up on Audio Asylum questioning the results (April 21, 2013)...

http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/pcaudio/messages/12/122768.html

Gordon,
I appreciate your feedback and critique. I used to have the QB9 and indeed it is a nice DAC so was quite happy that Stereophile's measurements concurs.
For this article, I believe the data was "bit perfect" since the LSB jitter modulation was evident in the 16-bit tests. Due to the hardware limitations, this was of course not seen in the 24-bit graphs. I did discuss this fact and the issue that the built-in computer DAC's had problems with bit-perfection.

Thank you for bringing up the "skirt" issue. I'm going to have to update my ASUS Essence One measurements because this was worse with the USB input but not the coaxial or TosLink. However, most of what I've seen suggests that this low frequency jitter is masked by the primary signal. Please correct me if this is wrong so that I may pay more attention to it especially if there's a point of audibility.

As for "at some point you have to listen to the damn thing" (I'm directing this to the general viewership, not just to your comments). It is precisely because I've been listening AND reading forums like this for the last 15-20 years that I started doing the measurements and putting up the blog! I don't think it's at all a stretch to say that people are notoriously unreliable in their experience... I have never found an audiophile who could reliably differentiate high bitrate MP3 for example, yet when I ask, everyone seems to say they can (sure there are people who can ABX 320kbps but that's very few). For those who have a copy, listen to track 26 on Stereophile Test CD2 simulating 10ns jitter. I would estimate that half of the audiophiles I've tried this on over 50 years old have difficulty hearing this simulation on a test tone yet they universally claim that a few hundred picosecond jitter is a "problem" audible in actual music.

There's precious little objectivity out there anymore for audiophiles - look at that bizarre 3-part article on computer audio in TAS early 2012; if "everything's possible" (bit-perfect rips sound different if ripped at different CD speeds according to that article) then nothing is known anymore. Just look at the numerous comments when those new to computer audio asks straight forward questions here. IMO, some of the responses border on delusional.

Time is limited but I have spent many many hours listening to cheap to very expensive gear - even owning a few of the more expensive items over the years. It is my belief that "good" sound can be independent of factors like price, or any of the external factors like workmanship, etc. In fact, I've come across situations where high priced gear are just plain inaccurate. For me, accuracy is all that matters, and this can be quantified objectively.

Speaking of "misinformation is what is sending most people into shock when they start CA". Realize that over these months of testing, I have not advocated anything I would consider as "fringe". I've shown that asynchronous DAC's are better with less anomalous J-Test spectra, coaxial and good USB is better than TosLink in the gear I have, shown 'good' DAC's like the Oppo BDP-105 (ESS Sabre) measures superbly. I advocate for "bit perfect" and showed that both Windows and Mac are capable of accurate output, and have interspersed these tests with listening to make sure nothing appears awry - usually spending a couple hours at a time in the evenings listening (eg. when I was doing some cable measurements recently). As I've said in some posts, there is no voodoo or magic here, and the tests are showing me such. How in the world is this shocking anyone out of computer audio!? If anything, it's reassuring that measurements line up with a rational empirical approach that is reproducible.

Now as for the test gear I use and software like RightMark. You don't need the Hubble telescope to identify Jupiter in the sky. Likewise, why do I need expensive gear like an AP when I just want to make sure the frequency response is relatively flat, or that the dynamic range of a DAC can exceed 16-bit CD quality, or that the Dunn test isn't atrocious? All these things are within reach of what I have and the beauty of computer audio and technological advancement is that stuff that can do this is easily within the consumer's grasp. However, I'm not saying that anyone should do this since it has taken me countless hours to learn how to get the calibration right and make sure the software setup works for me in order to achieve a high level of reliability in the measurements.

When my simple setup can easily demonstrate analogue cable differences, XLR vs. RCA differences, show me the spectral smearing between 320kbps MP3 vs. 400kbps AAC, demonstrate J-Test differences between coaxial vs. TosLink vs. AES/EBU, when I post about this, in what way is this "misinformation"? In fact, my ASUS Essence One measurements showed a disturbing anomaly when upsampling is used resulting in attenuated frequency response which has since been confirmed by ASUS (and hopefully to be remedied)... How come subjective Essence One reviewers missed this when it was so obvious with just a little testing?

Look guys, ultimately either what I say and write about makes sense, or it doesn't. I mention a new post up here once awhile that could be of interest like this one with the laptop tests to outboard DAC's. I have ZERO financial interests or otherwise. I do it for fun, for my own education, and enjoy sharing what I've found with others. Anyone can freely share their thoughts in the comments section (haven't had to censor anyone at this point for nonsense), and I've invited people to give me evidence/reason if they think something I say is wrong. Of course, with my objectivist mindset, "Level 4 or 5" evidence (ie. individual or series of reports) doesn't really impress compared to experimental results or controlled trials.

Cheers,
Arch

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  48. When you have pests in your home, it sometimes seems like an unending battle to keep their number under control. It’s tempting to think about what would happen when you simply stopped fighting them. Well, if you ignore pests rampant in your home, you’re welcoming a number of losses for yourself – from your health to your home. To get the best Pest control in your home, contact Clark Pest Control and forget tension.

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  49. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  50. If you see the page shows any fubo.tv/connect issues, all you can do is wait until FuboTV troubleshoots the issue and gets the streaming service up and running. We are available 24/7! I visit your blog page. It is really useful and easy to understand. Hope everyone get benefit. Thanks for sharing your Knowledge and experience with us.

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  51. Thanks For Sharing, Also Read To Know About Cash App Customer Service
    Do you need Cash App Support? Are you searching for solutions to common Cash App Issues? Then, you’re in the right place. Keep reading the article to grasp concerning the common Square Cash App Problems and the way to resolve them.

    A cash app is a mobile phone service that allows you to pay and receive payments from other people and institutions. The application can be easy to use. When you need to Contact the Cash App Support Number if you have issues that cannot be resolved in the FAQ section of the website or app. There is no direct From the phone you can call to the talk to a representative of the Cash app , but you can contact the support team within the app, on the website, and by mail.
    How To Contact Cash App Customer Service

    To Contact Cash App Customer Service

    Press your profile icon on the Cash App home screen. You will need to log into your Cash app on your smartphone.
    • Inside the app on your mobile device, tap the Circular profile icon in the top left corner of the screen. This will take you to a menu of options including the option of “Cash App.”
    • Select “Cash App” at the bottom of the screen. Scroll down to your app to find the “Contact Support” button at the very bottom of the screen.
    • Press To select the icon and access the support menu. It will be right above the “Sign Out” button.
    • Scroll down the Cash App Support menu and choose “Anything”. The Cash App Support menu lists some common topics that may answer your question, such as”Access old account” or “Missing payment“.

    If you do not find your answer here, click “Anything else” at the bottom of the screen. This will give you a big list of Common issues to choose from, and you can find your solution here.

    There Are Several Issues Might Be Happen When Using Cash App.

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  52. Cash App Verification : The cash app restricts its users from sending or receiving large amounts with an unverified Cash app account because it has a Cash app limit. To Increase Your Cash App Limit With The Help Of Your Id Card And Your Bank Account (SSN) Number. Once Cash App Verify your Identity And Its Verified, Limits Are Upgrade Automatically.
    How To Verify Cash App ?
    The Cash app verification process is quite simple and straightforward. Actually, the verification process involves entering some personal details along with Social Security Number (SSN). If you have an SSN, these are the following steps:
    Login To Your Cash App Account
    Tap on the Available Profiles tab at the top right corner.
    Now scroll down to find and select the “Personal” tab from the drop-down menu.
    Here comes a screen where you have to enter your personal details like DOB, billing address and SSN.
    Don’t forget to save the changes and proceed.
    Now wait for 24 hours and get confirmation for approval.

    Why Do I Have To Verify The Identity On The Cash App?

    Verify Your Cash App And Increase Your Cash App Transaction


    To Increase your Cash App Limit You Must-Have To Verify Your Identity.
    Cash App Verification Process Is Very Simple. You Can Scan Your Id With The Cash App Scanner, Cash App Identify Your Identity In 24 Hours. If Your Verification Are Failed You Must Be Contact Cash App Customer Service Department.

    How To Increase Cash App Limit?
    To increase Cash app limit, you must complete the Cash app account verification. For verification, you need to provide your personal information, including your full name, date of birth, and the last four digits of your social security number.
    If you want to know how to increase the limit of cash app then you should understand the terms and conditions of your current bank.


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  53. Cash Out On Cash App : When You Are New On Cash App And The Money In Your Cash App Wallet And You Don’t Know To How To Cash Out On Cash App . You can transfer funds to your bank account using the Cash App. To “Withdraw” on the Cash App, you must transfer your balance in the app to your linked bank account. The Cash App provides standard deposits to your bank account and instant deposits for your linked debit card.

    How To Cash Out On Cash App

    To Cash Out On Cash App:
    1. Open the app on your iPhone or Android.
    2. Go to the “My Cash” tab by tapping the dollar amount in the middle of your screen.
    3. Below your balance, tap the button on the left that says “Cash Out.”
    4. The “Cash Out” menu will pop up with an autocomplete amount for transfer. If you want to transfer less, use the touchscreen on your iPhone or Android to type in the amount.
    Tap “Cash Out”.
    5. Once you decide how much you want to transfer, tap “Cash Out” at the bottom.
    Enter the desired amount, then tap “Cash Out “.
    6. A pop-up will ask how you want to deposit money. If you choose “Standard”, it will take one to three days for the money to appear in your account. If you need money immediately, you can tap “Instant” for a 25 cent fee.

    However, sometimes some users have a hard time understanding many things, especially how to withdraw Money From Cash App or what is meant by cash out on cash app.

    When someone sends you money on the square app, it stays in the wallet, but a user can ‘Withdraw‘ the money from the Cash App Card which can be used as a debit card and Visa acceptor Can spend his balance anywhere.
    However, if a user does not have a Cash App Card , they can transfer the account balance to their bank account.
    However, if you do not have a cash card, or will simply transfer your balance back to your bank account, it is very simple to do, and can even be done immediately.


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  54. What Is Cash App Card And How To Use Cash App Card

    Cash App Card : Cash App Offers A Free Black Color Debit Card (Cash Card) . A Cash App Card is a Visa debit card, which can be used to pay for goods and services, by cash app balances both online and in stores. Your Cash App Card is often accessed as soon as you add it to Apple Pay and Google Pay.

    Some FAQ Of Cash App Card:
    How To Order Cash App Card?
    To order yours:
    Press on the Cash Card tab on your home screen
    Press Receive Cash Card
    Tap Continue
    Follow the steps
    You must be 18 or older to use a cash card. Cards must arrive within 10 working days. As soon as you’ll use your cash card by adding Apple Pay and Google Pay or using the cardboard details found within the Cash Card tab.

    How To Activate Cash App Card ?
    To activate your cash card using the QR code that comes with it:
    Press the Cash Card tab on your home screen
    Tap your Cash Card image
    Press Activate Cash Card
    When your cash app asks you to use your camera, tap on OK
    Line up your camera with the QR code until it comes into focus

    How To Add Money To Cash App Card?
    First You need To Add bank account to the cash app. After Successfully Linked your bank account, You can very easily load money from a cash app account to a cash app card.

    Where Can I Load My Cash App Card?
    You can load your cash app card from a linked bank account through cash app, debit card, and internet banking. The Cash app gives you the option to add money by linking to a debit card. Similarly, you can load your cash app card by visiting several stores in the US such as Walmart, Walgreen, and many cash stores.

    How To Put Money On Cash App Card?
    To Put Money Into Cash App Card, The following steps are helpful in this regard:
    In the Cash app, you have to select the My Cash option
    Tap the “Add Cash” tab here
    Then enter the amount you want to add to the cash card
    You need to re-examine the details you entered, especially the amount of money you want to “add” before proceeding.
    After loading the money in it check the cash card balance.

    How To Replace Lost Cash App Card?
     If you need to replace a card that is reported lost or stolen, you can do so by tapping the card within the Cash app and tapping the report Lost card. You will need to provide personal information which may include your card number, full name, transaction history and other relevant information to replace lost cash app card.


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  55. Cash App Bitcoin : In January 2018, The Cash App expanded to allow users to buy and sell bitcoins. To Start Send And Receive Bitcoin On Cash App You Need To Verify Your Identity On Cash App . Once Your Identity Is Verified By Cash App, You Are Able To Purchase , Sell, Send, Receive, And Withdraw Bitcoin On Cash App.

    How To Verify Bitcoin On Cash App?

    Why Do I Have To Verify The Identity On The Cash App?
    To Purchase, Sell, Send, Receive, And Withdraw Bitcoin On Cash App You Must-Have To Verify Your Identity.
    Cash App Bitcoin Verification Process Is Very Simple.
    You Can Scan Your Id With The Cash App Scanner, Cash App Identify Your Identity In 24 Hours. If Your Verification Are Failed You Must Be Contact Cash App Customer Service Department.
    How To Buy Bitcoin On Cash App?
    You must have a balance in your Cash app to buy bitcoins
    To buy bitcoin using your cash app:
    Tap on the Investment tab on your Cash app home screen
    Tap on Bitcoin
    Press Buy
    Select an amount or tap to enter a custom amount
    Enter your PIN and choose Confirm
    To buy bitcoins it is necessary to have a balance in your Cash app. You may also get to enter additional geographic information.

    How To Send Bitcoin On Cash App?
    Here are the steps using which you can easily send bitcoin to some external wallet:
    Launch the Cash app on your phone and select the profile’s icon, which is in the top left corner.
    After that scroll to the fund and then click on bitcoin.
    Before withdrawing money, make sure you confirm your identity.
    After confirming the identity, you can move out and press the confirm button.
    Click on the QR scanner from the external wallet or you can choose to use the address of the wallet, which is given below the device.
    Click on the confirmation button.
    Once you are done with all the steps, you will be done with the withdrawal of bitcoins using your Cash App account. Transferring or sending bitcoins from the cash app wallet can take some time at certain times, so it is advisable to wait for some time after the transaction.
    How To Withdraw Bitcoin On Cash App?
    To withdraw bitcoin from your cash app account:
    Tap on the Banking tab on your cash app home screen
    Select Bitcoin
    Press withdraw bitcoin
    Scan the QR code address or use the wallet address to enter manually
    Confirm your PIN or Touch ID

    To make a withdrawal you must have a balance of at least 0.0001 bitcoins. You can withdraw $ 2,000 worth of bitcoins every 24 hours, and up to $ 5,000 in any 7-day period. Transfer to an external wallet typically takes between 30-40 minutes but may take longer.


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  56. You can connect both PayPal and Cash App in these ways. However, there’s No way to send money directly from PayPal to Cash App. Alternatively, you’ll send or transfer money to your respective debit cards – PayPal Cash Card and Cash App Card or transfer money from your PayPal account to your checking account and instead to the Cash app.
    There is no one-click to try to do this. However, there are two ways to send money to PayPal and the Cash app – a linked checking account or their respective open-end credit. Some additional steps are going to be required to finish the work both ways. More in-depth on how you’ll connect your PayPal and Cash App accounts:
    There are Two Methods to send money between PayPal to Cash App.
    Method 1: The way to connect PayPal and Cash app through a linked checking account.
    1. Connect your PayPal to your checking account.
    2. Connect your Cash App account to your checking account.
    3. Transfer money from paypal account to the linked checking account.
    4. Transfer funds from checking account to cash app account.
    This method is best for those that transfer themselves and their personal accounts. While transfer fees are usually free, you’ll need to wait 1-3 business days between transfers or pay a further accelerated transfer fee.
    Method 2: The way to connect PayPal and Cash App through PayPal Cash Card and Cash App Card.
    1. Activate your Square Cash Card And PayPal Cash Card.
    2. Get your Square Cash Card And PayPal Cash Card Bank and Routing Number.
    3. Add your PayPal or Cash App as a bank.
    4. Transfer your money from your account to your target account.
    5. Check whether the transfer was successful.
    This method is best to use when transferring money to an account that’s not your own. this is often the sole way for those that don’t feel safe to link their bank accounts for seasonal transactions.
    The PayPal Cash Card And Cash App Card, are going to be the fastest way to transfer money from Cash App To PayPal.

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  57. The post includes the PayPal customer service phone number, among other ways, which you can use to contact customer support. PayPal takes its customer complaints very seriously. So when you call them, expect them to solve your problem.
    PayPal Holdings, Inc. Is headquartered in San Jose, CA. It is an online payment system that allows users to enjoy transferring money. It serves as an electronic alternative to traditional paper money. Users no longer need to keep cash or cards in their wallets for the application.

    PayPal customer service over the phone or via online chat.

    You can contact PayPal over the phone, or use their online
    paypal help center and message assistant.
    To reach PayPal via phone, call 1–888–221–1161 using the phone number associated with your PayPal account. The online help center is filled with articles on almost every PayPal topic, and also allows you to chat online with a representative. Two other options include the
    PayPal Community Forum and the PayPal Resolution Center, but these do not work nearly as quickly.

    Some FAQ Of PayPal Customer Service:
    Why Contact PayPal Customer Service?
    PayPal customer service over the phone or via online chat
    How do I get in touch with PayPal customer service?
    PayPal Phone Number :
    How To Contact PayPal Online?
    PayPal Help Center :
    PayPal Customer Service Phone Number :
    PayPal Customer Service Chat :
    PayPal Customer Service Email :


    There may be several reasons to contact PayPal customer support.

    User can not access their password and account
    User issues like payments hold, rejects and more
    • Customers want to set their profile on PayPal. So they can face bank account information, credit card information, or other problems
    • Users may face some account limitations, such as chargebacks or payment disputes.
    • For business issues like orders, PayPal Solutions

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  58. can send and receive money online for products and services. If some of these services or products do not meet your expectations, or they are unsatisfactory in any way, you may have to ask for your refund.

    Customers and sellers sometimes cannot reach a conPayPal is an online service that provides a convenient way to transfer money. You tract (for a paid product or service with PayPal) on their own, so PayPal intervenes to resolve the problem. This is usually the reason why people request refunds on PayPal. Learn more about how you can help get a PayPal refund.
    How To Refund On PayPal

     Here's how to refund a payment:

    Click the Activity tab at the top of the page.
    Click All Transactions.
    Select the payment you want to refund.
    Click Issue a refund.
    Under "Total Refund Amount," enter the amount you want to refund. You may have the option to refund a partial amount of the payment.
    Click Issue Refund. You'll be directed to a page confirming that your refund has been sent.

    You can send an email to the seller requesting a full payment refund. Ask the seller to go to the transaction details page for your transaction and click on the issue a refund.

    You can request a refund up to 180 days after payment for your item. If you sent the payment, but it is still pending, you can cancel it on your activity, until you see the “Cancel” button next to it. If the payment is not claimed within 30 days, it will be automatically returned to you.
    Some FAQ Of PayPal Refund:
    How To Request A Refund On PayPal?
    Where can I get a refund status in my PayPal account?
    PayPal Dispute :
    how to open a dispute on PayPal with a seller when a purchase goes wrong?

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